Standing just minutes from Edelweiss Lodge and Resort in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany, Mukkefuck offers breakfast, lunch and dinner menus rooted in local flavors. (Zade Vadnais/Stars and Stripes)
Tucked into a quiet corner near Garmisch-Partenkirchen’s pedestrian zone, Mukkefuck doesn’t exactly scream “must-try restaurant.”
But after decades of family visits to this Alpine ski town, I’ve learned not to let the name or the modest entrance fool anyone. When a friend’s wife asked if I knew a good spot to celebrate his birthday after a day on the slopes of southern Germany, I didn’t hesitate.
It also helps that Mukkefuck is just a five-minute drive from the U.S. military’s Edelweiss Lodge and Resort, making it an easy pick for visiting Americans looking to venture beyond hotel dining.
To Americans, “Mukkefuck” might sound like something to giggle at. But in German, it’s a colloquial word for faux coffee made from roasted grains like chicory or barley.
The name evokes rustic comfort, not profanity, and the restaurant lives up to that meaning. The charming interior features wide plank wood floors, a carved wooden ceiling, soft wall lighting and homey decorations. We were seated near an old ceramic stove.
Mukkefuck is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, each with its own distinct menu. This visit was for dinner, but earlier meals lean more café-style, with lighter dishes, pastries and a different pace entirely.
The menu focuses on classic Bavarian dishes made with ingredients from local butchers and farmers. Mukkefuck is known for its fresh salads, served with a creamy, tangy house dressing. If you’re not ordering one as a main, most entrées come with a generous bowl on the side.
To start, we tried the cucumber soup, which turned out to be far richer than expected. Instead of a chilled, refreshing puree, it arrived warm and velvety, made with cream, chopped cucumber and fresh chives. Thick slices of crusty bread came alongside.
My dining companion took a few spoonfuls, paused and said it tasted like “onion liquor.” The waitress, laughing, confirmed there was white wine in the broth and joked that maybe the kitchen had been a little heavy-handed.
Then came the entrées, and with them the need to make table space.
Each plate arrived with not just one but two full portions of meat, plus a generous salad and hearty sides. The servings were clearly designed for appetites shaped by skiing, hiking or biking up the surrounding peaks.
My companion ordered the Munich schnitzel, a pork cutlet made with bacon and horseradish, served with a warm potato and cucumber salad. The meat was crispy and well-seasoned, and the creamy salad was a perfect counterpoint. He finished every bite.
I chose the grilled turkey steak in a mushroom cream sauce with buttered noodles. The turkey was thin, tender and full of flavor, and the creamy sauce soaked into the noodles and sauteed mushrooms in all the right ways. I hadn’t expected two cutlets, either, but I wasn’t complaining.
Drinks included a mix-up, but a harmless one. I ordered still water. My companion asked for sparkling water with rhubarb juice, but the waitress brought elderflower juice instead. He liked it just as much.
We didn’t skip dessert so much as surrender to portion size. But having previously tried the homemade cakes, which often incorporate seasonal ingredients, I can vouch for their quality. The chocolate version is easily reason enough to come back.
The establishment is small and cozy, so reservations are a smart idea. On our visit, we were the only Americans in the place. That’s usually a good sign in a town that sees its share of tourists.
Mukkefuck has never missed for me. It’s handled picky relatives and skeptical friends with ease. I can’t count how many times I’ve been there, and I don’t know how many more times I’ll get to go. But I know this wasn’t the last.
Mukkefuck
Location: Zugspitzstrasse 3, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany
Hours: Wednesday through Sunday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Prices: Drinks, 3.90 to 9.80 euros; breakfasts, 5.80 to 12.80 euros; salads, 10.80 to 17.80 euros; main dishes, 12.80 to 29.80 euros; desserts, 5.50 to 7.80 euros.
Information: www.mukkefuck.de