The steak tartare is one of several raw offerings at That’s Amore, a new steakhouse in the downtown area of Stuttgart, Germany. (John Vandiver/Stars and Stripes)
Downtown Stuttgart’s new steakhouse That’s Amore occupies what used to be hallowed beef ground for me.
Its predecessor in the space on Kronprinzstrasse was the Meatery, an all-time favorite and my go-to spot for the best steaks in town until it shut down in 2024 after an 11-year run.
When my family and I ventured to That’s Amore recently, our expectations were high. We hoped that the substitution of a place with a different name and decor didn’t mean a turn for the worse when it comes to the meat locker.
The restaurant plays on Italian-American themes, with classic pictures of Frank Sinatra and his fellow Rat Pack members on the wall. It also has a much more diverse menu than its predecessor did.
While steaks are still the centerpiece, with dry-aged meat hanging prominently in a glass display case, there’s lots of other stuff. Gourmet burgers, seafood and pasta dishes are among the options.
The steak menu was enticing, albeit expensive, with prices for most varieties costing more than 50 euros. You can select meat sourced from the U.S., Argentina or Germany in cuts that include T-bones, New York strips, rib eyes, filets and more.
I went with the Germany-sourced New York strip from the dry-aged chamber. For an appetizer I selected the steak tartare, which had always been a favorite at the trusty old Meatery.
The interior of That’s Amore, a steakhouse in Stuttgart, Germany, includes an open kitchen where patrons can watch the chefs at work. (John Vandiver/Stars and Stripes)
That’s Amore steakhouse in Stuttgart, Germany, has an Italian-American theme. If offers a wide variety of cuts, such as this New York strip. (John Vandiver/Stars and Stripes)
The latter was served on a bed of thin, slightly foamy cream and was attractively garnished. It tasted great too, although the serving was quite small. Then came the 21-ounce streak with a couple of dipping sauces on the side.
Sadly, it fell well short of expectations. The meat was quite chewy and didn’t deliver the kind of flavor I had taken for granted at the Meatery.
Also, the hefty steak knife was as dull as a butter knife, forcing me to saw and saw only to chew and chew through each morsel. I think I enjoyed my side of steamed wild broccoli more.
Perhaps it was just bad luck with the cut, but given the prices, I would be unlikely to select from the steak menu again.
My dining partners seemed to fare better with their choices. The grilled octopus was a hit. It was slightly charred but still moist inside.
So was the Italian burger, served with pesto and mozzarella. The beef patty was thick and juicy and the pesto gave it a unique savory punch.
The wine menu was extensive and I was especially pleased with my selection, a cabernet sauvignon from Austria’s Tyrol region. Everyone around the table had an approving whiff of it.
The service was also quite exceptional, at least by German standards. The waitstaff had a friendly demeanor, in contrast to the typically standoffish German norm, and we were impressed with their attentiveness.
Given the prices, That’s Amore is probably best reserved for a special occasion, unless the family budget for dining out isn’t an issue.
If I decide to return, the menu has lots of other things that I would try, including the truffle pizza and whole lobster.
But when it comes to first impressions on the steak, That’s Amore’s got nothing on my old friend the Meatery.
vandiver.john@stripes.com @john_vandiver
That’s Amore
Address: Kronprinzstrasse 24, Stuttgart
Hours: Monday through Friday, 12-3 p.m. and 6-10 p.m.; Saturday, 1-10 p.m.; Sunday, 5:30-9 p.m.
Prices: Most main courses between 25 euros and 40 euros. Steak prices vary, but most cost 50 euros or more.
Info: www.thatsamore-restaurant.de
