The Kleinmarkthalle in Frankfurt, Germany, features nearly 160 vendors selling regional and international food products. (Jennifer H. Svan/Stars and Stripes)
A visit to Frankfurt’s Kleinmarkthalle reminded me of one of my favorite pastimes when visiting home in southeastern Pennsylvania, close to Amish country: shopping at indoor farmers markets.
At the markets back home, it’s easy to get lost wandering among the stands of fresh vegetables, homemade baked goods, candies, meats, cheeses and countless handicraft items.
The Kleinmarkthalle offers the same bustle and variety as the Pennsylvania Dutch version, albeit with a distinctly international flair.
In English, the name translates to “little market hall.” But with nearly 160 vendors and about 1,500 square meters on mostly two floors, the place is anything but tiny.
The original market hall welcomed its first customers in 1879. The building was destroyed in the March 1944 heavy bombing raids on the city during World War II. The current hall opened in 1954 about 200 meters southwest of the original site.
On a recent Friday afternoon, the market was bustling with locals stocking up on pantry staples. Meandering tourists and an after-work crowd getting an early start on the weekend began filling up one of several wine bars in the hall. The variety of colors, sounds and smells was a jolt to the senses.
View of the Kleinmarkthalle in March 2014. (iStock)
The diverse sellers and their range of products represent much of Europe — including Germany, Italy, Spain, Belgium and Greece — as well as the United Kingdom, the Middle East, Asia and South America.
The Pinocchio stand was an Italian foodie’s dream. I counted 14 different varieties of olives and an even wider assortment of smoked sausages, including horse and Napoli seasoned with fennel. I tried my first arancini, a traditional Sicilian deep-fried, breaded rice ball. I opted for the spinach and mozzarella version over the minced meat. It was buono, though it would have been better heated up.
Another sausage stall belongs to Ilse Schreiber, a fixture at the market since its opening in 1954, who has come to be known as the “Frankfurt Sausage Queen,” according to a story about her earlier this year in the Frankfurter Rundschau newspaper. She serves four kinds of sausage: yellow, meat, beef and Krakauer, cold with mustard.
Fresh vegetable stalls abound with uncommon produce, such as wax gourd, wild broccoli, purple tomatoes and a Thai cooking staple — holy basil. A bundle of seven herbs to make Frankfurt’s famous green sauce can also be purchased.
Other items that stood out included free-range chicken eggs with a light-blue hue, selling 10 for six euros. At the Tel Aviv Street Food stall, I found some unusual hummus varieties, including red beet, dark and peanut butter chocolate, espresso, paprika and tomato, along with the traditional version.
A Japanese street food vendor at the Kleinmarkthalle in Frankfurt, Germany, advertises one of its matcha drink specials. (Jennifer H. Svan/Stars and Stripes)
I was disappointed to find the Kinya Japanese food stand had closed early. I was eager to try some fresh sushi and miso soup. But I found Japanese street food at Inari-san, one of the newest vendors at the market. Its menu features drinks made with either cold matcha and oat milk or hojicha (roasted green tea). I tried one of the spring specials, the pink matcha cloud with hibiscus, elderberry, lychee and strawberry flavors and creamy matcha. The strong matcha flavor was noteworthy.
If you’re planning a trip to Frankfurt, the Kleinmarkthalle is worth a stop. My advice is to come hungry, as there are several bistros with seating and daily specials. The risotto with shrimp and zucchini, and tiramisu looked especially appealing on the day I visited. If you’re not hungry, there are several coffee shops and wine bars, including one on an outdoor terrace. I also recommend taking some cash, as not all vendors accept credit cards. And don’t forget some shopping bags and a cooler with ice for fresh cuts of meat or seafood from the basement fishmonger.
On the QT
Address: Hasengasse 5-7, 60311 Frankfurt am Main, Hesse, Germany
Hours: 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Friday; 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday; closed Sunday and holidays.
Information: Online: kleinmarkthalle.de
