A hiker walks along the Schwarzachklamm trail in Bavaria. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
Europe’s waterways and forests are steeped in a rich tapestry of captivating folklore, from the Brothers Grimm tales set in Germany’s Black Forest to the legends of the wizard Merlin in France’s Forest of Brocéliande.
While hiking within the gorge and towering trees on the Schwarzachklamm hiking trail just south of Nuremberg, I took the opportunity to create my own stories, imagining faces in the canyon walls that surrounded me.
The trail was busy with families, pets and bikers on one of the first above-freezing, sunny weekend days of the year.
A footbridge lets hikers trace the canyon walls and follow the river through Schwarzenbruck, Germany. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
The hike, located about an hour west of the Grafenwoehr Training Area and 40 minutes east of Ansbach, has been described by some hikers as the “Franconian Grand Canyon.” While it is not as expansive, the trail features plenty of striking rock formations that a hiker can safely explore.
From the parking lot in Schwarzenbruck, the route my partner and I chose on the right side of the Schwarzach river was an easy out-and-back, totaling around 3 to 4 miles along the riverbank.
Throughout the hike, we had the added challenge of a scavenger hunt created by my partner’s mother, who had completed the trail just a few days earlier. She sent us a handful of photos of trees and rock formations that, in her imagination, carried their own sense of mystery.
One of the first towering rocks that arched over the trail resembled a sleeping giant, keeping watch over passersby. Nearby, small caves, which I imagined to be the giant’s homes, invited children to run, explore and play.
Further along the trail we discovered more “faces” in the trees and stones around us, as well as old buildings that seemed to melt into the landscape with age.
Signs outline the start of the Schwarzachklamm hike in Schwarzenbruck, Germany. While there are multiple paths to take, the writer chose a family-friendly route of approximately 3 to 4 miles along the riverbank with tons of rock features and towering trees. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
White rectangles with a blue cross easily mark the trail of the Schwarzachklamm hike, just south of Nuremberg, Germany. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
A large stone towers over a trail of the Schwarzachklamm hike in Bavaria. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
The Schwarzach River winds through a canyoned trail in Schwarzenbruck, Germany. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
Stairs lead up to another portion of the Schwarzachklamm hiking trail in Schwarzenbruck, Germany. The wooded trail, situated in a small canyon, winds along the local river. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
A water mill on the Schwarzach river provides some energy to the local town and can be found on the Schwarzachklamm hike just south of Nuremberg, Germany. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
A footbridge along the gorge of the Schwarzachklamm hiking trail in Germany. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
A beer garden is situated along the Schwarzachklamm trail offering food, drinks and plenty of space to relax and socialize. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
Hikers can enjoy drinks and food at a beer garden found along the Schwarzachklamm trail just south of Nuremberg. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
Along the Schwarzachklamm trail, stones take on shapes of their own, leaving space for the imagination to wander. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
Impressive rock formations line the Schwarzachklamm hiking trail, inviting exploration along the way. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
We continued along footbridges and the mostly flat trail, passing beneath rocky overhangs until we reached the turnaround point — a beer garden tucked right along the path. I enjoyed taking a moment to order a coffee and a slice of rhubarb cake and sit in the sun in the outdoor seating area.
The Schwarzachklamm hike isn’t limited to the trail we took as there are plenty of additional paths that let you make it as short or as long as you want.
I think that part of the beauty of a hike is inventing stories, though everyone finds their own way to pass the time.
Embracing a more whimsical perspective can bring a special kind of meaning to places like the Schwarzachklamm, where everyone sees something a little different.
An old building blends architecture and nature along the Schwarzachklamm hiking trail just south of Nuremberg, Germany. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)
Schwarzachklamm Hike
Address: Trailhead, Am Schwarzachhang 14, 90592 Schwarzenbruck; Free parking, Dürrenhembacher Strasse, 90592 Schwarzenbruck
Cost: Hike is free; Beer garden drinks cost between 3 and 10 euros, meals average around 20 euros.
Hours: March to November, sunrise to sunset
Information: Online: bergwelten.com/t/w/41380
