After several hours of hiking in the adjacent forest, a group of locals from nearby Kaiserslautern, knock back a couple of drinks at the Zur Herberge wine cellar and restaurant in Neustadt, Germany. Once a hunters lodge, the establishment serves simple, affordable, regional home-cooked meals. This Neustadt (there are several in country) is situated along the German Wine Road in the state of Rhineland-Pfalz. (Kevin Dougherty/Stars and Stripes)
For a place that dates to the 18th century, the oldest wine bar in Germany’s grape-growing town of Neustadt an der Weinstrasse has aged quite well, thank you.
There is certainly a fusty aroma to Zur Herberge, which first opened its heavy, arched doors in 1793. But there’s also something oddly fascinating about patronizing a venue that has touched four centuries.
What began as a lodge and watering hole for hunters prowling the Palatinate Forest is now a favorite haunt of hikers, tourists and aging locals. The building itself dates to 1595, so it didn’t become a Weinstube, or wine pub, for nearly two centuries.
Although the clientele turns younger in the summer and fall when the weather is fairer and folks sit outside, for most days of the year the regulars rule.
“This is not a place for playboys,” said Bernd Bilkenroth, one of seven retirees enjoying a drink following a day on the nearby footpaths.
Bilkenroth and his group visit Herberge once or twice a week, typically ordering light meals and glasses of wine from the region.
Situated on the German Wine Road, Neustadt an der Weinstrasse draws tens of thousands of people annually. Herberge is one of several wine pubs in town, though it remains the senior member of the grape bunch. It used to make its own wine, but stopped about 50 years ago, according to owner Inge Löchel, whose family has operated the establishment for more than two centuries.
Once through the arched, wooden doors, a patron steps into a small courtyard off of which is the door leading to the main serving room. That room is only large enough to accommodate several tables, so strangers are often compelled to sit together and rub elbows.
“The important thing is that people have a place to meet,” Löchel said.
As a testament to such gatherings, above one of the tables is a colorful oil painting by a local artist that depicts a typical assembly.
Löchel serves fish every Friday and offers a daily dish of local cuisine on the other days. The daily specials usually run 7 to 9 euros. Other dishes are available, but the menu is rather sparse. At its core, Zur Herberge is a place to meet, maybe eat, but certainly to sip and sample grape juice with a kick.
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