Posters, drawings and costumes are all part of the collection in the museum of Il Teatro di San Carlo opera house in Naples, Italy. (Courtesy of Il Teatro di San Carlo)
There’s something special about the theater. The enchanting hush as the lights dim while the audience seems to hold a collective breath of anticipation as the curtain rises.
The shouts of “Encore, encore!” punctuated by the scent of fresh flowers tossed on stage at the end of a spectacular performance.
Audiences clad in better-than-their-Sunday-best.
There’s a magical air about the theater — a sentiment experienced tenfold, I think, at the world’s oldest and one of its most beautiful opera houses: Teatro di San Carlo in downtown Naples, Italy.
Built in 1737 at the behest of King Carlos III, San Carlo predates the famed La Scala of Milano by 41 years, and the Teatro La Fenice of Venice by 55 years.
The opera house is fringed by the iconic Gambrinus coffee bar where, legend has it, in the 1860s, Italy’s freedom fighters would retire to scribble out Italy’s present-day constitution after taking in an opera or ballet.
The unassuming, borderline-blah gray-and-off-white exterior belies the spectacular surprise within.
Past the gray arches, beyond the entrance and up tan marbled steps await six tiers of ornate balconies, a theater bathed in rich burgundy hues juxtaposed against the enveloping U-shaped chamber of balconies and orchestra seating that can accommodate 1,379.
As if the hall itself weren’t enough, those who gaze upward are rewarded by the central frescoed ceiling painting that depicts Apollo presenting to Minerva the greatest poets of the world.
In October, theater staff began offering guided tours in Italian and English Monday through Saturday (except holidays and during August). Visitors can request tours in other languages at the ticket counter.
As highfalutin, posh and expensive as visiting an opera house might sound, Teatro di San Carlo provides some reasonably priced shows. Tickets start at 15 euros, for example, for the April 10 rendition of “Peter Pan” by students of San Carlo’s dance school, which celebrates its 200th anniversary.
TEATRO DI SAN CARLOAddress: Via San Carlo, 98. Naples.
Hours: Ticket office is open Monday through Saturday 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.; closed holidays.
Costs: Theater-only tours costs 6 euros per person. The opera house’s museum can be toured for an additional 6 euros. Those with hefty wallets (much heftier) can indulge by spending roughly 400 euros for stage-front orchestra seating on the opening night of a famous opera or ballet. For the rest of us, typical opera and ballet ticket prices range from 50 euros for tier six balcony seating to 110-130 euros for orchestra seating. Season tickets also are available and vary in cost depending on seat location.
Information:teatrosancarlo.it. Ticket office: (39) 081-797-2331.