Diners at Antica Osteria al Bersagliere in Vicenza, Italy, can choose a second course featuring various meats or fish, or they can opt for this lighter dish — a combination of cheeses and relishes. (Kent Harris/Stars and Stripes)
There aren’t many seats to go around at Antica Osteria al Bersagliere in Vicenza, Italy, even when the place is empty.
But once you grab a spot, you’re expected to stay awhile. This isn’t McDonald’s.
Plan on spending several hours working your way through several courses. One of the few restaurants in Vicenza feted by followers of the slow-food movement, al Bersagliere offers entrees that are meant to be enjoyed, not just consumed.
Martin Zanella is one of the chefs. His family has run the restaurant for eight years. He describes the menu as traditional, with some modern twists. Almost all the ingredients for all the dishes are produced locally, he said. Exceptions include a few select ingredients that aren’t produced in the Veneto region.
So expect to see dishes or ingredients the region is known for, such as baccala (dried cod), radicchio di Treviso (sautéed greens) and Asiago cheese. Broccoli comes from nearby Creazzo. Local wines dot the menu. And much of the meats and vegetables come from farms a short drive away.
Most of the time, the dishes aren’t that complex. Rather, care is placed on the quality of the ingredients and preparation. Nothing comes from a package, Zanella says.
Slow food doesn’t mean it takes a noticeably longer time to prepare and serve. There are exceptions, though. Order a dessert featuring chocolate, hazelnuts, strawberries and raspberries and you’re warned it’ll take 10 minutes longer. In other words, they’re not already made and kept in the freezer.
Like McDonald’s, soft drinks are available, but wine and water are the more popular choices when it comes to drinking.
During a recent visit, there were eight appetizers to choose from. Options included small mounds made of one layer each of sausage, mashed potatoes and lentils (with cow tongue on the side) and a baked onion stuffed with cheese and other ingredients.
First courses include soups and pasta dishes featuring a few local ingredients and combinations not commonly found in Chef Boyardee. Most dishes follow local traditions as opposed to other regions in Italy. Al Bersagliere leaves the Bolognese sauce to Bologna.
Second courses range from meat and fish dishes to a pair of options featuring plates of local cheeses, sauces and minced vegetables.
Those who don’t want to wait 10 minutes for their dessert can choose from a handful of other options. Though it might be tempting to order a second dessert while your dinner companions wait to receive their chocolate, berry and nut tort, remember, you’re supposed to be eating slow and savoring.
So wait until their dessert arrives. Then order another for yourself. To go with the after-dinner coffee, of course.
Know a restaurant or entertainment spot you’d like to see reviewed in After Hours? E-mail John Taylor at taylorj@estripes.osd.mil.
Location: Pescaria 11, downtown Vicenza, Italy.
Directions: It’s just a block from Piazza dei Signori, the central square in the historic downtown area. Walk through the arch that borders the square, down the steps and veer slightly to the right. The restaurant is on the left before crossing the bridge. The most reliable parking spots are in the garage several blocks away near the Teatro Olimpico.
Hours: Food served noon to 2 p.m. and 7:30-10 p.m. Closed Sunday evenings and Mondays.
Menu: In Italian only, but staff speaks basic English.
Food: Appetizers range in price from 8 euros to 12 euros and include soups, meats, cheeses and stuffed vegetables. First courses (7 euros to 13 euros) include traditional pastas such as fettucine and spaghetti with combinations of locally grown vegetables or livestock. Second courses consist of meat dishes (9-15 euros), fish dishes (11-20 euros) or cheese and vegetable combos (13-14 euros). A dozen desserts range from 4 euros to 6 euros.
Prices: Expect to pay about 25-30 euros a person if you want all the courses and wine. Portions are small enough so most people can eat several courses if they desire.
Clientele: Small groups of Italians
Dress: Casual or business attire
Capacity: There are only three tables downstairs and five upstairs for total seating of about 30.
Phone: 0444-323507. Reservations are a good idea if you’re planning to eat as late as the Italians do or on the weekend. It’s not usually busy at night when it first opens.
Web site: In progress.