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The Tandoorian offers a taste of northern India in Wiesbaden

Butter chicken, right, from Tandoorian in Wiesbaden sits on top of clove rice. On the plate with the chicken are potato samosas and dramsap chicken. Three dips are in the foreground and on the plate on the left is garlic butter nan.

DAVID EDGE/STARS AND STRIPES

By DAVID EDGE | Stars and Stripes | Published: January 28, 2021

Growing up in America, I often thought Indian food was limited to heavily spiced curries. I now understand that the subcontinent of India is a highly diverse, culturally rich place with culinary traditions that can hold their own against any in the world.

Indian food uses a broad palette of flavors, incorporating spicy, sour, sweet and hot all at the same time. The food of northern India is no exception.

The Tandoorian restaurant has an extensive menu, featuring over 15 appetizers, more than 25 different main courses and nine desserts to choose from. Only non-alcoholic drinks are offered on the small beverages menu.

Because of the coronavirus restrictions in the German state of Hessen, I had my food delivered.

For starters, I had samosas, a light, flaky pastry filled with either spiced meat or vegetables; a breaded, deep-fried, seasoned chicken leg called dramsap chicken; and garlic butter nan, an enhanced version of the traditional flatbread often served with Indian meals. All three appetizers came with dips — garlic pepper paste, sweet and sour tamarind sauce and a mint yogurt sauce. I liked two out of the three dips, but others might like them all.

For my main course, I ordered butter chicken, one of three dishes listed as favorites at the top of Tandoorian's menu. Samosas are also on the favorites list, along with chicken tikka masala, which, the menu warns, is “scharf” — literally sharp, but in this context meaning spicy-hot.

Butter chicken is sliced chicken breast that’s been put on a skewer and cooked in a tandoori, or clay oven. It was cloaked in a mild Indian curry and served with clove rice on the side. The chicken was tender and moist, and the curry was a little sweet, but delicious when mixed with the rice, which, with its infusion of cloves, lent unexpected floral notes to the meal.

And I’m not a fan of anything clove.

Lastly, the prices are reasonable, with main courses ranging from 10 to 22 euro for a good-sized portion that should satisfy most appetites. And the food was still hot when it arrived.

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Twitter: @DavidEdge96798393

 

Address: Wilhelmstrasse 52a, 65183 Wiesbaden

Hours: Monday 5 p.m. - 11:30 p.m. Tuesday - Sunday 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.

Prices: About 10 to 22 euros for most main courses.

English menu: No, but staff speak English.

Information: Online: tandoorian.de; Email: info@tandoorian.de; Phone: +49 (0)611 360 3866