Pick up the slimy fish by the tail, tilt your head back, open your mouth wide, and pop the critter in. Chew and swallow.

That was my introduction to herring, a mainstay of the Dutch diet. I found it tasty, although I opted for small bites instead of the whole fish.

“Some people eat six or seven in one sitting. They’re very good for your health,” said Albert Simonis, owner of a popular fish restaurant by the same name in Scheveningen, the beach resort of The Hague in the Netherlands.

Simonis said the skin, head and innards of the fish are removed. It is then soaked in salt water for 24 hours before it’s ready to serve. It’s usually consumed with chopped onions.

This discovery, made over lunch at the noisy, packed restaurant, was one of several during a recent visit to The Hague, a city known for tribunals and government offices. I learned it has much more. Exquisite museums and streets lined with embassies. Spectacular architecture and fascinating neighborhoods. Classy shops and delightful parks and people.

For different perspectives, take a bike ride, a boat ride — even a ride in a tuk-tuk. I did all three.

The Hague is the political capital of the Netherlands and its third largest city, with a population of 450,000 — 30,000 of them expatriates working at international organizations and companies, including the International Criminal Tribunal for the Former Yugoslavia and the Organization for the Prohibition of Chemical Weapons. It calls itself the “international city of peace, justice and security.”

A good way to see the city is from the seat of a bike. Cycling past parks, through squares, past statues and around monuments is a pleasure, but takes getting used to if you’re on a rented bike.

I joined a group on bikes made for the city — sturdy, three-speed, pedal- brake models. Those accustomed to fancy 28-speed mountain bikes or racing cycles with hand brakes (like me) find this old-fashioned brake system disconcerting at first. Our group made a few practice loops before setting out.

Scheveningen is a perfect destination for a bike ride. In the summer, most visitors to the city head to the beach with its pier, spa and 2-mile- long promenade. But since it was winter, we stayed inland.

We stopped along the way to admire the Peace Palace, a building that has become a city symbol. Thanks to the generosity of American industrialist Andrew Carnegie, who donated $1.5 million, this neo-Renaissance building was constructed to house the Permanent Court of Arbitration, officially opening in 1913. Today, the International Court of Justice also makes its home in the building.

Another stunning structure to admire — but best on foot so you can check out the interior — is the city hall. The tall white structure with lots of glass, dubbed the “ice palace” by residents, was designed by American architect Richard Meier and opened in 1995. Inside is a vast atrium surrounded by 11 stories of offices where workers sit behind glass walls. The only color inside the stark white building is green. Giant palms add a splash of nature.

The Hague’s most famous buildings are in the Binnenhof, a castle complex of structures that played an important role in the country’s history and house the Dutch parliament.

The compound had its beginnings in the 13th century. After military victories in Germany, Count William II of Holland was due to be crowned German emperor by the pope. He needed a palace and chose The Hague as its location. He died before his coronation, but his son completed the castle.

The Binnenhof complex is adjacent to a lake, the Hofvijver, a lovely body of water in the city center with a fountain, an island and ducks. It’s a great place for photographs with the city’s new skyscrapers in the background.

The Hague’s noted museum, the Mauritshuis, is an elegant residence from 1640 at the eastern gate of the Binnenhof. It houses masterpieces of Dutch and Flemish art, including paintings by Rubens, Rembrandt, Jan Bruegel and Johannes Vermeer. Vermeer’s “Girl With a Pearl Earring,” the museum’s most famous work, is a masterpiece worth a wait in line to see.

Modern art is on display at the Gemeentenmuseum, whose claim to fame is a collection of 288 works by Dutch artist Piet Mondrian. The attention-getter here is his painting “Victory Boogie-Woogie” (1943-44) inspired by his years in New York. The museum paid $40 million for the abstract work.

In addition to museums, The Hague has colorful and lively inner-city neighborhoods to explore. Some 140 nationalities live in the city, with more than 20,000 inhabitants of Chinese descent. Street signs are in Chinese and Dutch in the city’s Chinatown, where, in addition to Chinese restaurants, boutiques, herbal therapists and grocery stores, there’s a Chinese hotel.

On nearby inner-city streets you’ll find places offering a royal Thai massage, a mosque, an Afro-Indian market and more interesting ethnic enterprises.

In this same area you can hop on a boat for a pleasant ride though The Hague’s canals. When you’re on deck you’ll constantly be told by the captain to “mind your head.” Low bridges crossing over the water keep boat passengers alert on the canals, which intersect industrial areas as well as pretty residential communities.

For a different type of ride, try a tuk-tuk. Twenty of these Southeast Asian auto rickshaws were custom built in Thailand to comply with Dutch safety standards and shipped to The Hague. They’re reasonable and ideal, albeit not the most comfortable, for short trips within the city.

Getting back to food: There’s another staple to try. The Dutch love to linger over an Indonesian rijsttafel, a spread with as many as 25 delicacies served with rice. The Hague was a favorite of soldiers and civil servants on leave from the Dutch East Indies who brought this special meal to the city.

It’s a culinary adventure, but beware — some of the dishes are fire in your mouth. You may like herring better.

Photojournalist Leah Larkin, a member of the Society of American Travel Writers, lives in the north Luberon area of Provence, France. Contact her through www.leahlarkin.com.

Know and Go

Where to stay: For reasonable accommodations, stay in Chinatown at the new Wahdo Hotel, The Hague’s first Chinese hotel. It has an excellent Chinese restaurant. Rooms from 89 euros.

Dining: A rijsttafel meal of 15 different dishes at the Indonesian restaurant Garoeda, Kneuterdijk 18a, is 22.50 euros; telephone (+31) (0) 70-3465319

A fish main course at Simonis Restaurant starts at 9 euros. I had a hearty portion of sole with French fries for 14 euros. The restaurant is at Visafslagweg 20; (+31) (0) 70-3500042.

For a gourmet splurge, dine at Max Restaurant, Prinsestraat 42a. (+31) (0) 70-4276168. Three-course meals are 35 euros.

Tours: A 90-minute boat trip through the canals is 9.50 euros with De Ooievaart. Find more information at www.denhaag.com or at tourist information offices in the city.

For information on guided bicycle tours, see www.totzo.org.

— Leah Larkin

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