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The cool of the morning is the best time to climb to the top of the Duomo for some stunning views in Florence, Italy.

The cool of the morning is the best time to climb to the top of the Duomo for some stunning views in Florence, Italy. (Mary Kieran / Special to S&S)

The cool of the morning is the best time to climb to the top of the Duomo for some stunning views in Florence, Italy.

The cool of the morning is the best time to climb to the top of the Duomo for some stunning views in Florence, Italy. (Mary Kieran / Special to S&S)

Chocolate lovers will swoon while eating the deep, dark, velvety chocolate “gelato” that Vivoli gelateria makes for its patrons.

Chocolate lovers will swoon while eating the deep, dark, velvety chocolate “gelato” that Vivoli gelateria makes for its patrons. (Mary Kieran / Special to S&S)

The Boboli Garden has shady tree-lined walkways, fountains and grottoes to help tourists get away from the crowds, as well as the sun.

The Boboli Garden has shady tree-lined walkways, fountains and grottoes to help tourists get away from the crowds, as well as the sun. (Mary Kieran / Special to S&S)

The dome of Florence’s Gothic Duomo holds “Last Judgment,” one of the largest paintings of the Renaissance. A good time to view it is while climbing to the top of the cathedral.

The dome of Florence’s Gothic Duomo holds “Last Judgment,” one of the largest paintings of the Renaissance. A good time to view it is while climbing to the top of the cathedral. (Mary Kieran / Special to S&S)

Door No. 1 wins — with no line at the Uffizi for those who make a reservation. Those who are able to plan and are willing to pay a fee can skip standing in line for two hours.

Door No. 1 wins — with no line at the Uffizi for those who make a reservation. Those who are able to plan and are willing to pay a fee can skip standing in line for two hours. (Mary Kieran / Special to S&S)

Florence attracts masses of visitors with its fine paintings, sculpture and Renaissance architecture.

With the heat and hordes of tourists pounding the cobblestone streets of the Italian city in the summer and fall, it’s important to know how to avoid the crowds and stay cool when visiting this world-class city of art.

Most important sights are within walking distance of the train station. Although Florence’s old town center is pedestrian-friendly, strolling around it can be brutal, with slow-moving mobs and little shade from the Tuscan sun.

With a little planning, however, you can experience the best Florence has to offer and skip the worst of the heat and crowds.

Start by making reservations to visit Florence’s major museums. A phone call, with an English-language option, is all it takes to reserve your preferred museum time and avoid joining the hundreds of people standing in lines for more than two hours trying to get into the Uffizi Gallery.

As soon as you know your travel dates, call to make reservations. Be sure to book the Uffizi at least a month in advance to see the Renaissance painters, while the Accademia can be booked just a few days ahead to see Michelangelo’s sculptures, including “David.”

Or, when booking lodging in Florence, ask your hotel to make a museum reservation for you at the same time — usually at no extra cost.

Make an early-morning start. The cool of the morning is the best time to climb either the 463 steps to the top of the Duomo, or the 413 steps up Giotto’s tower, for some of the best views in Florence. And it will help you get a leg up on the other tourists who are just getting started.

Both the Duomo and Giotto’s tower open at 8:30 a.m.

As the day heats up, exploring the cool interiors of Florence’s churches in search of Renaissance art can also bring relief from sizzling temperatures. All that thick stone and marble is both beautiful and a welcome getaway on a hot day.

The Gothic Duomo, with its green, white and pink Tuscan marble façade, houses one of the largest paintings of the Renaissance with its “Last Judgment” on the inside of the dome. The best view of this work of art is on your way up to climb to the top of the Duomo. Santa Croce, the 14th century Franciscan church, houses the tombs of Galileo and Michelangelo, in addition to Giotto’s fresco of Saint Francis.

Remember to honor the dress code when entering churches — no matter how hot it is, do not wear short shorts, short skirts or sleeveless tops.

Another oasis of cool tranquility can be found in one of Florence’s public gardens. The Boboli Garden, across the Arno River and behind the Pitti Palace, is the largest — plenty of room to escape crowds — and has shady tree-lined walkways, fountains and grottoes — ideal for beating the heat.

Or, stroll through a romantic garden with a lake, pavilions, statues, fake ruins and an Egyptian temple at the park at the Stibbert Museum.

A picnic of sandwiches, pizza slices, fresh fruit salad and juice can be purchased at bars or shops throughout Florence. Enjoy your meal al fresco in a garden, near the splash of a fountain or the scent of roses in bloom. Enjoy a moment of Italian-style il dolce far niente (“the sweetness of doing nothing”).

Then top it off with the cooling benefits of gelato, the creamy Italian ice cream.

There is a world of difference between everyday gelato and the rich and creamy version created by families who take pride in their work, generation after generation. Fresh ingredients, creative flavors and family tradition combine to make gelato production a true art form.

Vivoli, near the Santa Croce church, is a popular gelateria with both the locals and tourists lucky enough to stumble upon it. The Vivoli family has been serving ice cream to satisfied customers for more than 70 years, and its gelato is some of the best in town. Chocolate lovers will swoon while eating the deep, dark, velvety chocolate made there.

Carabé, a gelateria near the Accademia, specializes in the traditional frozen desserts and gelati of Sicily. Along with the gelato, you can try their cannelloni filled with sweetened ricotta for a creamy taste treat. A wide selection of flavors for their granita, or shaved ice drinks, includes flavors such as kiwi and melon — very refreshing on a hot day.

Perchè no! is a gelateria with a tradition that goes back more than 60 years. Midway between the Duomo and Piazza Signoria, this ice cream parlor serves exceptional gelato and remains a favorite with local Florentines, as well as visitors.

Mary Kieran is a freelance writer living in Italy. Write her at: wordsforsale@hotmail.com.

Know and Go

Reserve

To make museum reservations for the Uffizi, Accademia, Bargello, Medici Chapels and the Pitti Palace, call (+39) 055-294-883 (in English) from 8:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, and 6:30 p.m. to 12:30 p.m. Saturdays; closed Sundays.

An English-speaking operator will make your reservation and give you a six-digit reservation number. Present this number when you arrive to collect your tickets. There’s a fee of 3 euros per person for each reservation, in addition to the regular admission price.

Be persistent. The line is often busy. It takes about two minutes to make a reservation.

Refresh

Three really cool gelaterias are:

Carabe, via Ricasole 60r, (near Accademia Gallery), also at Piazza S. Jacopino, 9r; www.gelatocarabe.com (print coupon from Web site for free scoop upgrade)Vivoli, 7 via Isole delle Stinche (near Santa Croce at junction of via isola delle Stinche and Via Ghibellina); open Tuesday through Sunday until 1am, closed Mondays; www.vivoli.it.Perchè no!, via dei Tavolini 19r, (between Duomo and Piazza Signoria); open 10 a.m, to 1 a.m. daily except Tuesdays, when it is closed; www.percheno.firenze.it.Relax

Two parks to beat the crowds and heat:

Boboli Gardens: Behind the Pitti Palace at Piazza de Pitti, open 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily through October, then closed one hour earlier until spring; closed first and last Monday of month; 6 euros entrance fee; telephone (+39) 055-238-8614.Stibbert Museum and Park: Via Stibbert 26, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, and 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday, Saturday and Sunday, closed Thursdays; 5 euros entrance fee; telephone (+39) 055-486-049.— Mary Kieran

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