The French have perfected the art of convenience skiing.

Most of their well-known Alpine resorts, such as Three Valleys and Val d’Isère, grew up in the 1950s and ’60s. The complex of hotels and apartments is situated around the lifts. In most cases, skiing is out the back door. No need to struggle in cumbersome ski boots, lugging skis and poles to board a bus to the slopes, or, even worse, hike a great distance, as is the case with many European resorts.

Alpe d’Huez, an hour east of Grenoble, is one of these ski-in, ski-out resorts, even though the resort dates to the 1930s. It has grown considerably since then and today boasts 146 miles of slopes linked by 87 lifts with a vertical drop of 7,293 feet

In addition to convenience, Alpe d’Huez promises sun: 300 days of it per year, according to its Web site, www.alpedhuez.com. Located between the northern and southern Alps, the resort sits on a mountain shelf facing due south. According to records, the resort gets up to 7½ hours of sun daily in December and up to 11 hours per day in April.

I spent a week there in January and enjoyed sunshine every day. That, coupled with wide red and blue runs, plus some challenging black slopes, made for a perfect ski week. Snow permitting, there is also ample opportunity for off-piste adventure.

“I absolutely love this place. I’ve been twice already and can’t wait to go again,” commented one skier on the ifyouski.com Web site. Said another: “Alpe d’Huez is fab. We’ve been three times and would go again. We still haven’t skied it all.”

However, there were some complaints from skiers about the weather. On their trip there was too little snow and too much warm sun, making slopes slushy by the afternoon. And, one snowboarder who has been to five French resorts over the past three years called it “by far the worst I have been to.”

Other snowboarders took a different view: “This place is massive, plenty good boarding. Locals are friendly and welcoming. Good pubs.” For boarders, Alpe d’Huez has two snow parks.

Because the area is vast, slopes are not crowded, although there can be lift lines at the gondola that accesses the upper slopes from the resort hub. For the ultimate ski experience, ride the upper cable car to the resort peak, Pic Blanc at 10,989 feet. Before you ski, take in the scenery. The view, which stretches from the Italian Alps to the Massif Central and includes Mount Blanc, rates three stars in the Michelin guide.

From the summit there is a glacier slope serviced by a T-bar. Ski that once, then go for a long ride, 10 miles, down the Sarenne run. It is pure delight, said to be Europe’s longest run. It turns into an “autobahn” at the bottom with easy skiing next to a picturesque stream.

For more variety, ski the backside to the village of Vaujany or to Oz en Oisans. It’s fun to set out on a long-distance trek and have a snack or lunch in a different area.

Because it’s France, on-the- mountain eateries at Alpe d’Huez, as well as those in neighboring resort villages, are good. When the sun shines, there’s nothing better than an outdoor lunch surrounded by spectacular mountain scenery.

One skier who wrote to the ifyouski.com site learned to ski at Alpe d’Huez. He found the instruction “first class.” From the village hub, there is a large area of gentle green slopes perfect for first-timers, including children older than 4 in the ski nursery. Younger children, 2½ to 4, can begin to learn ski basics in the Baby Club.

On the negative side, one novice skier complained to the Web site that the resort was not beginner friendly: “The blue runs were definitely reds. I really would not recommend this resort and certainly wouldn’t go back.”

And some skiers may consider the lifts a minus — the resort has 45 T-bars in addition to its 25 comfy chairlifts.

Alpe d’Huez offers more than skiing. At the top of the Troncon gondola, elevation 8,900 feet, there is an ice cave. Two mountain guides carved out the cave and ice sculptors now go there to create works of art following a different theme each season. Last season it was Egypt, with sphinx, pyramids and cats carved in snow and ice. It was weird and whacky to wander thorough these tunnels decorated with icy replicas of ancient Egypt.

At the bottom of the slopes, Alpe d’Huez offers a heated outdoor swimming pool, an ice rink, 31 miles of cross-country ski tracks and a chalet where you can make arrangements for paragliding. Thirty-five euros will get you a three-minute tandem ride on a paraglider.

The resort is not quaint and charming like many mountain towns in Austria and Switzerland, but it is utilitarian, with small supermarkets, drug stores, ski shops, restaurants, bars and discos. It also has many apartment complexes with units that, while small, are equipped with a mini-kitchen where guests can prepare meals and cut restaurant costs.

Another plus for Americans: the British are frequent guests at Alpe d’Huez, so English is widely spoken.

And, then there’s that sun which has earned Alpe d’Huez the name “island in the sun.”

Leah Larkin, a member of the Society of American Travel Writers, is a journalist and skier who lives in France.

If you go ...

A two-day lift pass for adults is 68.50 euros; children younger than 16, 48.50 euros. A six-day pass is 182 euros, children younger than 16, 129 euros.

A week’s lodging, demi-pension (breakfast and a second meal) in a two-star Logis de France hotel in high season (Dec. 25- Jan. 2 and Feb. 5-March 5) costs 1,428 euros for two persons. A studio apartment (three stars) for four persons during high season rents for 1,000 euros.

Find more information at www.alpedhuez.com.

— Leah Larkin

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