Garmisch for non-skiers
Published: February 9, 2012
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Even if you’re no great fan of winter, frolicking in the snow at least once in the season can be a very pleasant thing. And when the white stuff fails to materialize in other parts of Germany, Americans based in that country know very well where to go to find it. So it was that we, as countless others have before us, set out for Garmisch-Partenkirchen at the end of January.
Garmisch is certainly a haven for snow bunnies, but suppose you don’t ski. Is there a point to making your way to an Alpine playground if you or your family members don’t care to take advantage of the area’s biggest draw?
On our recent long weekend getaway there, we found plenty of wintertime activities to occupy our days. Following a friend’s rave reviews, we decided to give tobogganing at the Rodelbahn am Bayernhaus a try. Within Garmisch’s town limits is the Hausberg ski lift. A ski rental facility sits just to the right of it, where we were able to procure old-fashioned wooden toboggans on runners for just 5 euros each for the entire day. The Hausberg lift, an enclosed cabin six-seater, whisks you up the mountain and to a dedicated toboggan run. The cost of a pass allowing for up to four runs down the mountain comes in at 20 euros.
Disembarking from the lift, we found it a little confusing as to which way to go. Down the incline and a sharp left takes you to the start of the toboggan run. On the night preceding our visit, the slopes had been blanketed by several inches of soft powder. This made the trail slow going at first; in fact there were probably half a dozen or more spots where we had to carry our toboggans to the next incline. At times the run co-mingled with ski runs, which meant extra care was called for to avoid collisions. The steering and braking system is simple but treacherous- tap your heel into the snow to set your course; dig in harder to slow down.
As the powdery conditions made for a slower course, after the first run we traded our wooden toboggans in for plastic models, a swap we were allowed to make free of charge. The plastic sleds provided a much brisker ride, although in terms of controllability, both models were about equal. Coming down on the third run, my husband took a spill headfirst into a snowbank, doing enough damage to his knee that we decided to call it quits for the day. It’s a fun experience, but have no doubt, circumstances could combine for this endeavor to end very badly. Think long and hard if you’ve got bad knees or a bad back. And bundle up just as if you were heading out for a day of skiing.
Beyond the tobogganing, I had looked forward to a jaunt on the rink of the Olympic Ice Stadium. Sadly, my plans were thwarted by a Sunday evening hockey game. Another activity that had sounded exciting was derailed by the warming trend of the weather -- a hike through the Partnach Gorge, which is passable in winter, but closed when there’s a danger of falling ice. Instead we contented ourselves with a stroll along the outskirts of the town along the easy Kramer plateau route, with vantage points offering views of the Zugspitze and the Olympic ski jump. I had to wonder how one musters up the courage to give that massive hulk a first-time go.
I had no idea the town of Garmisch had an additional treat in store for visitors in winter 2012. As it turns out, the Schäfflertanz, or Cooper's Dance, is performed by local talent only once in a seven-year cycle, and the weekend of our visit coincided with one of the dates of the performances. What I enjoyed as much as the dance itself was the appearance of the spectators, many of whom were locals, turned up in their traditional garb.
There remain only a handful more performances in this cycle, so if you’d care to see the Cooper’s dance, plan to be in Garmisch on the dates of Feb. 12, 16, 19 or 21. For locations, see the event calendar of the Garmisch-Partenkirchen tourism website.
