Norway’s spirited north: Trondheim has a Viking past and a clubbing present
By Sean E. Cobb, Stars
and Stripes
Sean E. Cobb / Stars and Stripes
Tyholt Tower overlooks the wealthy part of Trondheim, Norway. The tower is 400 feet high
and has a restaurant that rotates 360 degrees every hour, giving diners a full city
panorama. The cuisine is both American and Norwegian. |
You have to go through Hell to get to Trondheim, Norway. But
it’s worth it.
That’s Hell, Norway — a town northeast of Trondheim —
and “hell” means good luck in Norwegian.
Trondheim is a city alive with crisp air, rosy-cheeked faces and the
bustle of the third-largest city in Norway. The people are friendly and everyone speaks
English (they don’t seem to mind at all and in fact, seem to like the practice). Once
you see the city, it beckons like the North Star, drawing you in to see its wonders.
The heart of the city is on a strip of land between the Nidelva River
and Trondheim Fjord, one of the larger and deeper fjords in Norway. You can’t miss
the city square, with its statue of King Olav Trygvason, the founder of the city,
dominating the downtown area from its 60-foot-tall pedestal.
The square is a good place to start your exploration of the city. It
is centrally located among the historical sites and modern attractions. It’s also
where you will find the tourist information office. If you stand by the statue and look up
Munke Gate (Norwegians call most of their streets gates) toward the city’s
magnificent cathedral, on your left will be a red building with blue trim around the doors
and windows. This is the tourist information office at Munke Gate 19.
A good way to start exploring the city is to take one of its walking
tours. The office has standard tours every day, but also can tailor one to your interests.
These tours are normally brief and will give you ideas and locations
that you will want to see in depth.
A little perspective
Sean E. Cobb / Stars and Stripes
More than 100 years old, this bottle of Norway's national alcoholic drink, aquavit,
was put away to mark the pope's Millennium Jubilee celebration. |
To get an overall picture of what you will be seeing in Trondheim,
start with its history. More precisely, the history of a nation as it pulled away from the
old Norse gods and turned to a Christianity that was at first forced upon it but later
embraced.
Trondheim is a modern city with ancient ties. The second-oldest city
in Norway, after Tonsberg, it was established in 997 as the settlement Nidaros by
Trygvason. Trygvason was a great-grandson of Harald the Fair Haired, who had many years
earlier defeated the region’s other many small kingdoms and set himself up as ruler.
The king’s successor traditionally was selected at a site near
the future city — normally after a great deal of fighting — but when Trygvason
landed there and declared himself king, he was quickly accepted. He made the settlement
his capital, and it became the first capital of a united Norway.
Trygvason tried to establish Christianity, through sometimes brutal
means, and ultimately failed, dying at the Battle of Svolder in the year 1000. His
successor, King Olav Haraldson, also tried to convert the Vikings by the sword and fell in
the Battle of Stikelstad in 1030.
But that wasn’t the end of Haraldson’s story. He was buried
in Nidaros along the banks of the river Nidelva, then called Nid. When miracles began
happening, they moved the body to the town church.
Then, according to legend, a spring with miraculous properties flowed
were he was initially buried. He was declared a martyr and became St. Olav Haraldson,
bringer of Christianity to the North Way.
This was not only good for Haraldson, but also Trondheim, because the
pilgrims who swarmed to the shrine of the saint made Trondheim the largest and wealthiest
town in the country.
Places of interest
Sean E. Cobb / Stars and Stripes
For the best view of Trondheim, Norway's northernmost big city, climb up to Kristiansten
Fort. The city is laid out like a map, and the views of the Trondheim Fjord and Monk's
Island are spectacular. You also won't want to miss hearing about the fort's grim history. |
Haraldson’s history brings us to a major attraction, the Nidaros
Cathedral. Construction of what was to become Norway’s official national sanctuary
began in 1070 over the last grave of St. Haraldson. Built in the gothic style, it has
numerous sculptures around the outside walls and has magnificent stained-glass windows
added in the 20th century.
The cathedral is home to Norway’s crown jewels. They are only
available for viewing for a few hours a day, so check the schedule when you arrive in
Trondheim if this is something you want to see.
Next door and part of the cathedral is the Archbishop’s Palace,
the oldest secular building in Scandinavia. The museum inside contains original sculptures
from the cathedral and archaeological discoveries from the area.
The palace contains the Army Museum, also known as the Home Front
Museum. The museum shows the history of various armies from Viking times to present, and
focuses on central Norway’s role in World War II. There is a memorial wall with the
names of those who died fighting the Nazis during the war.
Within walking distance of the city square are the city’s fish
market, the Ravnkloa, which features an ancient clock; the wharves along the Nidelva
River; and the Gamle Bybro, the old town bridge.
The downtown area is also home to many museums. They feature maritime
history, telephones, contemporary art, musical instruments, botanical gardens, cultural
history, the police, tramways and a Jewish museum, to mention only a few.
Sean E. Cobb / Stars and Stripes
This bicycle lift to Kristiansten Fort was designed in Trondheim and helps people get
bikes up the steep hill. Trondheim has a city bike system, called Trondheim Bysykkel, that
allows people to ride bikes around the city for free. Put in a 20 kroner coin and get it
back when you return the bike. Get a lift card at the tourist information office. |
Farther out, on a hill overlooking the city, stands an 18th century
fort called the Kristiansten Festning. Built after a fire consumed the city in 1681, it
was used to defend the city from conquest by Sweden in 1718.
The fort was also used to execute members of the Norwegian resistance
during World War II, my taxi driver, Mads Hagerup, solemnly informed me.
During the German occupation from 1940-45, Vidkun Quisling, the
Norwegian fascist party leader and Nazi collaborator, had people shot along the walls of
the fort. He was in turn shot in 1945 in Oslo after the war. This was Norway’s last
official execution.
From the fort you can see Tyholt Tower, a 400-foot radio and
telecommunications tower. The special thing about the tower is its restaurant,
Egon’s. It rotates 360 degrees every hour — giving a bird’s-eye view of the
city day and night. The food is reasonably priced and American favorites are served along
with local cuisine.
The other main attraction outside the city center is Monk’s
Island. The island was Trondheim’s execution ground in Viking times. Benedictine
monks built a monastery there in the early 11th century, and it later became a prison
fort. The prison has been called Norway’s Alcatraz.
You can spend a whole day on the island. Ferries leave from Ravnkloa
every hour. Once there you can tour the island and the fort, visit beaches to sea-bathe in
the fjord, and dine at a restaurant on the island with an excellent view of the city.
Dining Norwegian
Sean E. Cobb / Stars and Stripes
A close-up of the crucified Christ in Judgment sculpture, which hangs above the main
entrance to the Nidaros Cathedral. There are sculptures all along the walls of the
cathedral and in the sanctuary. |
For something else to do in the city, try eating. Trondheim is a
seafood lover’s paradise. Its restaurants offer fresh-out-of-the-fjord fish dishes
such as turbot (a white fish along the lines of halibut and grouper, but leaner) and whale
steaks.
The whale steaks, like all the seafood dishes, are more inexpensive
than you might expect. It’s a red meat, more like a beef steak than seafood —
what one would expect of a mammal, but not what one would expect out of the sea.
Shopping
The specialty shopping is awesome. As elsewhere in Scandinavia, there
are plenty of stylish wool sweaters. You can get a handmade one for around $75-$110,
machine-made for around $40. The colors are intricate and earthy, and these traditional
sweaters are just what you need for walking around chilly Trondheim.
Leather jackets, pants and other accessories can be bought at a very
reasonable price. For instance, a nice leather jacket, fully insulated and with many
inside and outside pockets, costs around $40. So much for Italian leathers!
Another good thing about shopping in the city are the numerous
pedestrian-only streets. The feel of the cobblestone streets lined with large carved
trolls standing outside the businesses is unique — a Norwegian tradition.
Nightlife
Sean E. Cobb / Stars and Stripes
The west wall and main entrance to the Nidaros Cathedral, Norway's official national
sanctuary. The cathedral is built over the grave of St. Olav Haraldson, Norway's patron
saint. It also houses the Norwegian monarchy's crown jewels. |
If you are interested in after-hours activities, you will need those
warm clothes. The city doesn’t shut down until 3 a.m. (if it closes at all) and it
gets cold at night in the far north lands.
Trondheim is a university town, home to Trondheim University and the
Institute of Technology. So the bars and dance clubs are full of young, vibrant Norwegians
looking to warm themselves with good spirits and close company.
It is not considered rude to brush by someone, making full contact,
or to stand shoulder-to-shoulder while talking. So get used to partying up close. Since
this behavior is acceptable socially, pardons and “excuse me’s” are not
verbalized.
The city’s residents are quite fond of English and Irish pubs.
The Queen’s Pub, Gilroy’s Pub, MacBeth’s Pub and L’il London are just
a few. Inside you will find just the right atmosphere with authentic beer, naughty songs
and people dancing jigs.
If you find a pub that is a little deserted, don’t be
disheartened. The parties seem to rotate between the bars and if you keep walking you will
find a lively one for your night on the town.
While you’re out, don’t forget to try aquavit. A spicy
little liquor originated in Trondheim, it will keep you warm all night long. (See more on
aquavit on Page 7.) This sipping spirit is made to go with beer, so you won’t have to
forsake your first love.
Sean E. Cobb / Stars and Stripes
A view of Monk's Island from the fish market, Ravnkloa, in Trondheim, Norway. The island
has been home to an execution ground, a monastery and most recently a prison fort. Now it
has beaches for swimming in the water of the Trondheim Fjord and is a good spot to catch
some authentic Norwegian seafood. |
The region even has a good local beer, called Dahl’s. Brewed in
Trondheim, it is similar to a thick or heavy American pilsners. But like most alcoholic
drinks in Scandanavia, it carries a financial punch as well.
After a few days here, you will have just scratched the surface of
this multifaceted city and will probably need to come back soon to see the rest. Just keep
happy thoughts of Valhalla in your head as you pass back through Hell — and good luck
to you.
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